Frequently Asked Questions

Our foster greyhounds eat two meals a day in a combination of commercial dry food and Big Dog BARF (raw patties), and are given pigs ears for chews.

There are many different styles and types of diet, but the best food is one you can comfortably afford. You don’t need to spend a lot of money to provide a balanced and species appropriate diet.

Some dogs find foraging and puzzle feeding super enriching, while others prefer easy access. It is always best to provide opportunities for both. Greyhounds tend to do best on complete diets.

It is recommended your greyhound has their food broken up into multiple meals (such as breakfast and dinner)  a day to help prevent bloat, which may be caused by  gulpimg down a lot of food fast.

The right amount of food depends on your dog’s age, weight, activity level, and overall health. As a starting point, check the feeding guide on the dog food packaging – it usually gives a daily amount based on your dog’s weight. From there, adjust as needed. If your dog is gaining or losing weight, or if you're unsure, it's always best to chat with your vet.

Keep in mind the puppies, adults, and seniors all have different nutritional needs.

Looking at your dog’s body condition (not just the number on the scales) is often the best way to tell if they’re getting the right amount.

Some greyhounds coming out of racing may display food possession behaviours. During their racing life, they were kept at a minimum weight and every bit of food was just for them and they may never have needed to share before.

We strongly recommend that you never touch your greyhound or their food bowl while they’re eating. Keep everyone in the household, especially children, well away both when preparing their food and while they’re eating.

If your greyhound is worried about people near their food, you can help change how they feel by tossing a couple of high-value treats from a safe distance during mealtimes. This helps shift the experience from something stressful to something more positive and enjoyable.

Dog parks can be unpredictable environments, and things can go wrong, even for well-behaved dogs. Some greyhounds may enjoy running and playing with other dogs, especially if they’ve had positive experiences. But it’s important to be aware: the more unfamiliar the dogs your greyhound is running with, the higher the risk of a negative interaction. Not all dogs play the same way, and greyhounds can easily be overwhelmed, over-aroused, or injured in rough play.

They’re also physically vulnerable with their thin skin, long limbs, and high speed make them more prone to injury. Uneven ground, grit, or  hidden holes for example can increase the risk, especially when they’re running at full speed.

It’s completely okay if your greyhound only goes for lead walks. This is what most are used to, and they may feel much safer and more secure beside you on leash, especially while adjusting to life outside the racing kennel.

In Queensland, greyhounds can legally be off-leash in designated off-leash areas. In Victoria, an outdated law still prevents greyhounds from being off-leash in public, including dog parks, regardless of their behaviour or training.

When any dog enters a new home, whether it is a puppy or an older rescue dog, it is important that parents put the rules in place to help keep their children safe. Just like us, dogs sometimes do not like to have their space invaded.

Many conflicts can be avoided by ensuring your dog has a safe place to rest and also eat, where they won’t be approached or interacted with. The use of gates and pens can be a great way to provide security, especially if you have other animals, young children, or even guests in the home.

Teaching children to ask consent and setting house rules can assist in helping to have a harmonious home.

It is likely that your greyhound will find other types of dogs completely new and different and may be curious, or even scared of other dogs.  It's important to ensure every interaction is positive, so it's better to have fewer interactions that go well rather than trying to meet every dog, which could lead to some negative experiences. We should use calm body language, guide the dogs to move in a curve around each other, and encourage them to sniff each other's bottoms. After a few seconds, move on, praising them for staying calm. Avoid letting the dogs approach each other directly face-to-face, as this can be stressful and isn't a natural way for dogs to meet.

Some greyhounds adapt well to being left alone, while others may struggle — particularly if they are experiencing separation anxiety. This is not uncommon, especially for dogs who are newly adjusting to life in a home environment after racing.

Signs of distress may include vocalising, house-soiling, destructive behaviour, or attempts to escape. If you come home to any of these signs, it’s important not to punish your greyhound. These behaviours are often a result of stress, not disobedience.

If your dog is anxious, it's helpful to keep your departures and arrivals low-key. Simply pick up your keys and leave without speaking to them. When you return, remain calm and neutral until your dog has relaxed (for example, by yawning, blinking, stretching, or lying down), then quietly offer praise or affection

In more severe cases of anxiety, it's best to speak with your veterinarian to discuss medication and a behaviour modification plan or a qualified behaviour professional for support.

If the behaviour is due to boredom rather than anxiety, make sure your greyhound has had adequate physical and mental stimulation before being left alone. A long walk, food puzzles, or safe enrichment toys can all help prevent problem behaviours from developing.

Just like other breeds of dogs, greyhounds can be interested in chasing cats – however, greyhounds are so much faster that they stand a far greater chance of catching them! Some greyhounds can settle with small dogs and cats and we try to assess  this in foster care as best we can. Always be aware that although your greyhound may be completely safe with his own family cat – off territory he may view anything that runs as fair game – so be prepared!

In the canine world communication is often subtle and easily missed by humans (a turn of the head, a flick of the tongue). Respecting, and responding to, a growl can avoid escalation to higher level behaviours like snapping/biting.

Remember to never correct or punish a growling dog, instead see it as an opportunity to better understand their comfort level and boundaries.

This is often a form of “sleep startle” or sleep aggression. It’s not uncommon in greyhounds and doesn’t mean your dog is aggressive – it’s a natural reaction when they’re startled while transitioning between sleep and wakefulness.

Always give your greyhound their own dedicated bed, and avoid touching or waking them suddenly. If they’re on a couch or bed, don’t try to move them – encourage them off by calling their name or making noise to get their attention

With time and trust, many greyhounds become more relaxed, but some may always need a little extra space while resting – and that’s okay. It’s a dog thing.

Rescued racing greyhounds must get used to sharing household space with other members of the family, including children and other pets, when they may  have not shared space around food or bed with another animal. They may feel that they need to be ‘on their guard’, even subconsciously while they’re napping. Many ex racing greyhounds exhibit sleep aggression for reasons related to their background, not their personalities. Like all post-adoption adjustment issues, dealing with sleep aggression involves time, patience, awareness (of yourself and your dog) and common sense. Ensure your greyhound has their own bed, and discourage them from sleeping on spaces used by humans to avoid territorial issues. Some greyhounds will overcome their sleep aggression as they gain confidence as a pet, but many will always require careful management.